6 volt to 12 volt?

[Averyman]

I'm thinking of changing the 6 volt system in my 1951 B-12 to a 12 volt system in order to operate some good halogen headlights.. Anyone out there done the conversion?  I know the starter will work well on 12 volts and I will have to change bulbs. What about an ignition resistor?  Any help appreciated..  Thanks,
Clarence

[Cranman]

Well here goes and I know I'll forget something. Starter is no problem. Lots of them out there. I would get 12 volt guages for the dash. If you want to stay with SW original guages you will have to do some searching to find them in 12V. If not just pick up new ones from Can Tire as complete units with matching senders. All bulbs of course will need to be 12V. I don't think your model has a fuel guage so you won"t have to worry about that. I suggest you get a Delco alternator, preferably one that is set up to run with just one wire.  It will require a small pulley maybe under 3 in to get enough RPM. This does away with all the wiring to the voltage regulator as everything is looked after by the alternator and you'll have to run a # 10 or #8 over to the the battery +. I ran mine to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Ignition shops should modify and rebuild a used delco for about $100. If you need a pulley it will be $25 or so. I run a B46 belt about$9 which fits the fan and crank pulleys ok. I think there are auto belts that may be better. You can alter the generator mount or fabricate a new one to run the alternator close enough to the block to fit in. You'll need a 12v coil which should fit right in the holder. I use the internal resistor one to get away without the resistor block on the firewall. It is important to make sure you have a good heavy groundstrap from the engine to the metal part of the body as the alternator will burn your wires off looking for ground if you don't supply it. I'd take a new #10 wire to the front to a multi fuse holder that can handle 6 or 8 circuits protected by stick in fuses for your accessories. If you don't have a heater up front you can now install one with a good strong 12V blower. For the headlights I used a 30 amp breaker that plugged in one of the circuits. You might want to go to relays to feed the headlights if you go 100watt H3's to save your light switch from burning out. The AMP guage is a matter of preference but you really don't need it. You can bridge the two contacts together and tape them off. Put a Voltage guage in its place and hook it up to any 12 volt ignition on power source. If it is reading 13.8 volts you know all is well. I run the Princess Auto 100 watt H3's and they are good but I can't dim them. It is not really a problem as I seldom meet anyone. Hope this helps.

[Cranman]

In addition I would change the points and condenser in the distributor. The condenser # I have is AL868 and the point set AL-5-93-HV . I notice in my spares I'm carrying KEM parts and their numbers are 1701 for the condenser and TV13 for the point set. It is easier to just lift the distributor right out of the motor to service it. Make a scratch on the block to get it back in right and make note of where the rotor is pointing so you don't get 180 degrees out when you reinstall. Leave all the wires in the cap and push out of the way. Put the distributor in the vise where it is easy to get at and set the new points at .015 when on the lobe. I'd also change out the rotor if it doesn't look good. It should be # AL62 or Al 107. You could use a timing light to time the engine but we just warm them up good and drive in some loose snow. Under heavy load in high gear you should just begin to hear pinging. The pinging indicates too much advance. undo the bolt and turn the distributor clockwise in small increments untill you hear the pinging just go away under load. There will likely be others on with the things I've missed. I think it is all worthwhile and starting is also easier on 12 V. Have fun...

[Averyman]

Many thanks for all the info cranman...  I picked up new track belts at Shavers this week and have started transferring cleats.. big job! I'm using cleats off the swamp buggy tracks to make up the first track so I won't lose use of the machine while making them up.
I also put in a new carb kit and fuel pump. Quite a challenge to change the fuel pump!  I have a heater and fuel gauge in my machine.
The carb kit is NAPA #2-5066A
The fuel pump is NAPA #588
Regards, Clarence

[Cranman]

You might want to change out the fuel pump while you have the track off that side and do it throughthe removable panel if you have one. As to the 12 volt changeover, if your machine is original it likely has 6 Volt POSITIVE ground. It won't be a problem real;y but if you keep the ammeter you will have to switch the terminals or it will show discharge rather than charge, Good luck

[Cranman]

Just re reading this and for you guys that are upgrading out there, there is a few more points to consider. The positive ground system has the ignition wire hooked to the minus terminal on the coil and the positive terminal to the distributor. You have to reverse this for 12V neg ground. If you are putting in a Tachometer it can go to the neg coil terminal also. Also some new part numbers from the Vintagepowerwagon.com site: Dist.Cap #643822or AL106, Rotor #868 095 or AL62. Points 12V CS725A or Magnitron AL8890AS and Condersor 12V 674 955, M05 or AL869.

[the old trucker]

Cranman did the 1955 model have 6 volt or 12 vlot electrical system??