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OT'S 47-51 ??? Rebuild ??

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dpaulson:
OT, I don't think that you have to be all bang on.  I would say +- 3/16" would be close enough.  Your sprocket would really determine how far from the frame the wheels would sit.  The wheels might even be different spacing from the left side to the right.  I don't see a problem in adding more of the machine washers #11 to shim to center each wheel in line with the sprocket.  I think that it will be a trial and error for you.  Install a wheel and measure the center of tire to the frame and remove wheel again to add or subtract shim washers and reinstall the wheel. On mine there was one spindle that I had to install the castle nut on backwards as I didn't have enough thread to put the nut on and install the cotter pin after the wheel was shimmed out.  I don't recommend doing that though, but it is one of the middle wheels  so no real harm if it fell off.  I'll probably fix it next summer when I install some performance parts in the engine.  I'm glad your doing a bit more on the bomber = more pictures to share with us.

the old trucker:

  Thanks Dave. I have noticed that when cleaning up & painting my rims that some are 3 1/2" wide & some are 4" wide, as I have bomber rims & old J5 rims that fit. I still have to mount the diff in place yet. I noticed that when I put the castle nut on some axles it goes in too far for the cotter pin to work. It looks like they were not particular about drilling these holes. I was told I could drill new holes. I'll see about getting a couple of pics to show what I mean.

                                                                                   OT. 

dpaulson:
You could also shim the nut out with some washers to make the nut reach the hole.  You just have to watch that the hub cap ,when screwed on, does not rub on the spindle or nut.

Cranman:
Just looking at your line up of parts wheel bearing/axle parts OT. I don't recognize the outer thrust washer #3 that goes between the bearing and the nut. Most of the ones I've seen are a narrow washer and the originals had a tang on the inside to mate up with the keyway in the axle, so they don't turn. I don't think that part is all that important as the whole shebang is running in grease anyway. I've come across ordinary washers used there but they gouged two or three places on the outer edge so the grease from the hubcap can get back inside to feed the inner bearing. You don't want the hub cap coming in tight to the washer and stop the grease.

the old trucker:
 Thanks Cranman. That #3 is one that Dan Shaver sent to me. It isn't very thick. I thought he said most people screw the nut to the back of the bearing. My spindles have the key way cut into them. I would feel more comfortable with the proper washer there. Do you know how long # 10 should be ??
  Cranman on another note I want to know what you think about putting in the heavy duty diff in (4.86 gears) versus the light duty one that I have with (4.11 gears). I am dropping off my diff tomorrow to have it checked out. I have a heavy duty & a light duty one out back for spares.
  I think the 4.86 ratio will burn alot more gas than the 4.11 ratio. I got a new contact for a fellow in Quebec that is supposed to alot of parts... plus 25 bombers. I hope to get started on this rebuild again soon.
                                                                     A slack OT.

                                   
 

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