General Forums > Metal Bombardiers
My 1952 R-12 build, lots of questions for guys who have been there, done that
Walrus:
Since I already converted to 12v I wondering about oil pressure the only gauge still working. Seemed to have good oil pressure until I changed the oil, then it was low. I had a mechanical gauge I used for diagnosis so I screwed that in, its not bad, little over 20 at an idle, ramps up when revved up.
The radiator is pretty scarred up but the cap holds no pressure, I don't see any leaks and if you take the cap off their certainly is coolant flowing. Not sure what to do with it, I doubt their is anything new around? I do have a couple of good radiator shops in the area, I suppose they could recore, wonder what that would cost?
dpaulson:
I purchased a ALUMINUM RADIATOR 1947-1954 CHEVY TRUCK 4 ROW on ebay that needed some minor modifications, which fit really good. Price was about 350.00. It also has ports for transmission cooler if you ever installed a different motor with an automatic.
Walrus:
Few pics, notice how the old owner kept the windshield in after the rubber let go
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/walrus_07/IMG_1154_zpsdb6400cb.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/walrus_07/IMG_1155_zps5be9877f.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/walrus_07/IMG_1158_zpse7fbc39b.jpg
Walrus:
--- Quote from: dpaulson on April 13, 2013, 03:39:49 pm ---I purchased a ALUMINUM RADIATOR 1947-1954 CHEVY TRUCK 4 ROW on ebay that needed some minor modifications, which fit really good. Price was about 350.00. It also has ports for transmission cooler if you ever installed a different motor with an automatic.
--- End quote ---
Like this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4-ROW-ALL-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-47-48-49-50-51-52-53-54-CHEVY-TRUCK-1-SERVICE-/290850986580?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b811da54&vxp=mtr
dpaulson:
Yup, same guy too. The rad cap is 1.8#. It was fine for my 318, but may be too high for a 251. You'll need to check with some 'oldtimers'. ;). I think just the mounting flanges are a bit wide that they'll need to be trimmed a bit. Also the mounting flanges are welded on a bit of an angle compared to being welded straight like the original. I think I cut mine off and rewelded them straight only because I've got the equipment to do it. It probably wouldn't matter if the rad was at a bit of an angle, or you may be able to do some shimming to keep the rad upright.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version