My 1952 R-12 build, lots of questions for guys who have been there, done that

[Walrus]

I have thread in the general discussion area, thought I'd start one in here. Got a 1952 R-12, came from New Brunswick, where my Mom in law has a camp on the Upsalquitch River. Great area BTW. Its been sitting a long time but was registered in 2004. Its been back yarded to keep it running, the guy who owned it had no money and lived 30 miles or so from the nearest parts store, so get it going the best you can. Anyway, I have it running but have some questions. I assumed there would be an access hole in the belly pan for changing the oil, don't see one, is it on the side?,  Do you vac the oil out? I doubt that.

Skis, took them off so I could put the tires on, looks like rotten wood under a flat plate and then the skag sits on the flat plate, anyone have a pic of what it looks like when correct. I have some red Oak I can use but what size is it?

I just ordered the windshield rubber as this one is held in by nothing at this point. Shavers is sending it to me UPS aong with a current price list of stuff they stock. I need to recover the front sprockets so I'm sure I'll be ordering some more stuff from Shavers.

Video after alternator was installed
http://youtu.be/ZdOaBnphwiw

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[the old trucker]

  Just put this pic here to show folks what you started with.. It's going to be a long ungoing process, but I'm sure you can do it...

http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/IMG_1093.jpg

[the old trucker]

  I think there is a hole located in the floor pan that was used by the 251. It should be right under the oil drain plug. If you look up wooden bombardiers & go to "VARNISHED MACHINE" , reply # 11, third pic down, you'll see it.                                                             

                                                                 OT.        

[Walrus]

  I think there is a hole located in the floor pan that was used by the 251. It should be right under the oil drain plug. If you look up wooden bombardiers & go to "VARNISHED MACHINE" , reply # 11, third pic down, you'll see it.                                                             

                                                                 OT.        

Maybe I didn't look close enough, need to get oil and filter changed today, supposed to snow tonight, if I get track on left side tighter maybe I'll have some pics of it out in the snow tomorrow

[Walrus]

I can't find any access hole for the drain plug, there is one for the tranny and someone torched one in for the rear end but nothing for the engine. Can't understand that. Where is the drain on the oil pan? I can see the oil pan sump but can't feel anything with my hand as the belly pan and oil pan are pretty close together. Is it in the middle of the sump, on the front end or back end, I'll cut a hole if I know where it is? Probably put a drill bit right thru the oil pan

[the old trucker]

  This is Oldsledz's woody. you can see the hole just behind of the second axle from the rear. I think there is another hole just ahead of that one for the transmission. Be careful with the drill as Mike's ( 57 rebuild )
said the drain plug in his is almost flush to the floor. I hope this helps a little... There may be a plate laid on top of the hole.. OT.
 http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m366/theoldtrucker/basepan_zps093088f1.jpg

[Walrus]

OT
Thanks for that pick, its hard to tell how far up that hole is from motor mounts but it gives some indication where the drain plug might be. The oil will get drained today if I have to cut a huge hole and weld it back in, kind of scared to weld it also as its kind of greasy in the belly pan but.

The more I dig into this thing the worse and worse it looks, going to take a lot of effort to get this thing running again so my Mom In Law can have a ride in the snow. I will say lots of folks have old trucks or cars but no one but you guys have one of these and thats whats makes it appealing to me.

Where can I get Motor Mount rubbers, the 2 shown in the pics? Is that something Shavers might have? Both of mine are deteriorated and one has been backyarded if you know what I mean

[Walrus]

Feel like a dummy, the drain hole was cut into the belly pan but was further under the machine than I thought. I jacked it way up so I could get under it and found area  that had been cut with a torch and what looks to be a cold chisel, then it was covered over to keep the  sheet metal from digging into the snow, makes me want to cut the area out and fix it but you can get at the drain plug with a little fooling around. Now I can't find an oil filter, the 2 I have aren't right. The canister cover says replace with AC C-204 which I can't seem to cross reference.

Greased all the fittings on the swing arms, had to replace a couple of broken off fittings, thank god for left hand twist drill bits.

 The canisters hooked by chains to the swing arms. Shock absorbers of some kind? one appears to be leaking, how do you fix one of those?

[dpaulson]

That canister just contains a heavy  spring.  Anything leaking would just be water.

[the old trucker]

    If Shavers don't have them look up Vintage power wagon. I think Oldsledz got his there. Under General Discussions look up "NEW PARTS SUPPLIERS LIST". There are a few places there to call.

[Walrus]

Since I already converted to 12v I wondering about oil pressure the only gauge still working. Seemed to have good oil pressure until I changed the oil, then it was low. I had a mechanical gauge I used for diagnosis so I screwed that in, its not bad, little over 20 at an idle, ramps up when revved up.

The radiator is pretty scarred up but the cap holds no pressure, I don't see any leaks and if you take the cap off their certainly is coolant flowing. Not sure what to do with it, I doubt their is anything new around? I do have a couple of good radiator shops in the area, I suppose they could recore, wonder what that would cost?

[dpaulson]

I purchased a   ALUMINUM RADIATOR 1947-1954 CHEVY TRUCK 4 ROW on ebay that needed some minor modifications, which fit really good. Price was about 350.00. It also has ports for transmission cooler if you ever installed a different motor with an automatic.

[Walrus]

Few pics, notice how the old owner kept the windshield in after the rubber let go



http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/walrus_07/IMG_1154_zpsdb6400cb.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/walrus_07/IMG_1155_zps5be9877f.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/walrus_07/IMG_1158_zpse7fbc39b.jpg

[Walrus]

I purchased a   ALUMINUM RADIATOR 1947-1954 CHEVY TRUCK 4 ROW on ebay that needed some minor modifications, which fit really good. Price was about 350.00. It also has ports for transmission cooler if you ever installed a different motor with an automatic.

Like this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4-ROW-ALL-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-47-48-49-50-51-52-53-54-CHEVY-TRUCK-1-SERVICE-/290850986580?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b811da54&vxp=mtr

[dpaulson]

Yup, same guy too.  The rad cap is 1.8#.  It was fine for my 318, but may be too high for a 251.  You'll need to check with some 'oldtimers'. .  I think just the mounting flanges are a bit wide that they'll need to be trimmed a bit.  Also the mounting flanges are welded on a bit of an angle compared to being welded straight like the original.   I think I cut mine off and rewelded them straight only because I've got the equipment to do it.  It probably wouldn't matter if the rad was at a bit of an angle, or you may be able to do some shimming to keep the rad upright.